Phong Nha was our 5th stop on our Vietnam trip, travelling north to south. A few days in this beautiful town will give you plenty of time to explore the local activities!
How We Got Here
We travelled on an overnight bus from Ninh Binh to Phong Nha. It was ‘overnight’ but as it was only 6 hours, it was a bit of a funny departure and arrival time. We didn’t leave Ninh Binh until late and then arrived in Phong Nha really early. Luckily our accommodation kindly picked us up from the bus stop as it was quite a walk from the main street in the town to our hostel. The overnight bus was ok, fairly comfy and clean. Just a bit chaotic with the stops, people getting on and off and lights going on and off! All part of the experience, of course.
Where We Stayed
Our accommodation for this stop was a homestay style accommodation instead. The family had converted their house into a hostel with private rooms and a dorm room. We opted for a private room and after arriving at silly o’clock, we were able to check in straight away and went back to bed. It cost 100,000 VND extra each (£3!!!!) so it was a no brainer. It was so appreciated that they had thought ahead to message and ask us if we’d like to check in early. It really saved our first day.
Most of the family were at the house during the day, run by a mum, dad and their kids. Grandparents and babies were around too, but everyone was so lovely and friendly. They had adorable friendly dogs too which was a bonus.
Breakfast was included and we even joined in for the family dinner with the other guests staying here. It was a really lovely experience and it was lovely to chat to other guests and the family but also have the quietness of our private room. The family were very helpful and chatty if we approached but they also gave us space and you were free to come and go as you wish which was appreciated.
Amenities were good with pushbike hire, ped hire, laundry, AC, a ‘restaurant’ so you could get food at the accommodation and the pick up and drop off services to the bus stops. It was really clean and relaxing, there was a beautiful garden too – I was sad to leave!


Where to Eat
So as always, we ate a few of our meals at the accommodation as sometimes thats easier and then we also ate on the main town street a couple of times too.
The only one I can recommend because I have a terrible memory and it’s the only one we actually saved on our google maps, is Bamboo Chopsticks. Pretty popular with backpackers, the food was good and fairly priced so we ended up eating here a couple of times.
How We Got Around
To get around, particularly from accommodation, whilst you could walk easily to the main street, it was a little easier to rent one of the pushbikes or a ped. We used both but also did a lot of walking. If you’re on the main street you might not need to rent bikes or peds for exploring the main town, but if you want to get out and about then you’ll need to hire a mode of transport or book onto a tour.
What We Did
We had a busy itinerary in Phong Nha! We finally had some good weather which was so appreciated and it just meant we could get out and about to explore. The most important thing for us in Phong Nha and one of the main reasons we stopped here was for The Duck Stop. I’ve written a separate blog about this if you want to read more. It was honestly one of our Vietnam highlights and one of things family and friends still ask us about.
We did most of our exploring in one day again – our 3 day itinerary was the usual pattern of arriving on day 1, 2nd day is the full day of exploring and 3rd day a little time to explore before leaving in the early evening.
Day 1: Arrive, check in and we caught up on some sleep as we were in our room straight away. Hired pushbikes so we could explore Phong Nha’s main street, went along the river, bought some snacks and did our laundry. The main street has lots of bars, cafes and restaurants and further up the river.
Day 2: Ped Day!! Explained below.
Day 3: Made the most of the room before checking out, walked to the main street for food, repacked our bags with our clean washing (the highlight of backpacking!), relaxed at the accommodation and did some planning for our next stops before we headed on to Hue.
Our full day (Day 2) was the ped day so we ticked off most of the things on this day. We started with a drive around on the ped, through the main street and out up the river just to see a bit more than we had seen on our push bikes on the first day. There were so many water buffalos on the river bank and you could see the locals out on the water too. Lots of boat tours to do, but we didn’t opt to do one as there were other things to see.
After we had had a drive around we headed to The Duck Stop first and we were here for an hour and a half-ish. The ride to The Duck Stop was really scenic, the whole of Phong Nha was so green and pretty so it was so nice to see the surrounding area. No one was on a tour when we arrived so we didn’t have to wait long before getting to meet all the ducks, but by the time we’d finished a few more groups had arrived and as the tour is done in small groups those arriving later had a bit of a wait. If you do arrive and there is a bit of a wait, there are plenty of seats in the shade and your ticket includes a cold drink and some freshly made spring rolls. You’ll be well looked after! I won’t say more as I’ve written in detail all about our experience on a seperate post.
After The Duck Stop, we headed out on the road again to the Pub With Cold Beer. Its a famous Instagram spot but it was quiet and was just a cute little family run pub with nice views, a pool and such cute puppies (see below!). We relaxed here for a while with a cold drink and had a snack. It’s a really popular spot for food but as we had only just had our spring rolls we didn’t fancy a full meal. People who were eating, their food looked so good. A speciality at the Pub With Cold Beer is their freshly cooked roast chicken, which you can participate in by choosing the chicken you’d like to eat.


Once we had enjoyed a chill out, Mike even had a snooze in one of the hammocks, we decided to get back on the bike and head onto our final stop of the day, the Phong Nha Botanic Garden. Whilst called a botanic garden, its actually a ecological park that is over 40 hectares so its pretty huge. The gardens are open from 8am – 5pm every day, about 12km from the centre of Phong Nha and you are required to purchase tickets on your arrival.
At the ticket office, you’ll be given a map of the 3 walks which are varying length. We opted to do pathway 2 which took us on an 1.5 hour trek with a waterfall stop which was so refreshing as we cooled off and had a swim! The trek was pretty challenging, I found it quite scary as we were crossing the slippery rocks at the top of the falls, and using a rope to climb up the fall – we didn’t expect to be scrambling like this. The first part of the walk to the falls was ok, I wasn’t too concerned but after we had relaxed in the water, and decided to continue we then realised the rest of the route was going to be a lot more challenging. Make sure you have proper shoes on and I would recommend also bringing a backpack, because it would have been impossible with a tote bag. I believe walk option one was more accessible and straightforward but as we didn’t complete it, we turned back to do option 2 instead, I can’t say for sure!
The botanic gardens are so luscious and green, it was such a beautiful part of Phong Nha to explore, so I would really recommend checking it out. Just go prepared for slightly rogue hiking routes! If you’re lucky, you can even see wild animals whilst you’re out on a trek too, so keep your eyes peeled for this. Also, don’t forget bug spray as the warm environment was full of bitey things.
After we’d completed our hike and had a swim, we were near to the park’s closing time so we headed back out on our ped, back to our accommodation ready for our dinner with the family who ran our accommodation.
Hans Hint’s
If you have longer in Phong Nha or you want to spread things out a little, I’d recommend doing the botanic garden on a different day to the other bits. This will give you more time to explore and the chance to complete the longer trek which is over 4km.
There are SO many more things to do in Phong Nha. One of the most popular activities are cave hikes. A lot of people will be in Phong Nha for a week or more as there are many guided treks which can last from a day to a week. We didn’t opt to do one as we had seen quite a few caves and as we had limited time, there were other things we wanted to do more. At the family dinner, the other couples we spoke to had stopped in Phong Nha to make the most of the cave hikes and they only had good things to say about their experiences with the tours and the guides. One of them had participated in a hike that involved sleeping in a cave overnight which was pretty cool. The tours really vary in price too and you will need decent hiking equipment with you, but I think some was provided too. But there are plenty of options to suit all abilities and budgets. I’ve put a link in here (https://www.visitphongnha.com/things-to-do/) to the Phong Nha website which has more information on the tours, but your accommodation/hostel will be able to provide more information too.
Final thing about beautiful Phong Nha is that its SO beautiful to explore on a ped. It’s one of the suggested things to do on the visitors website and we loved cruising around on our own. To access a lot of the things you’ll want to do in Phong Nha, you will need a ped or to do them as part of a tour. The driving was pretty easy, the roads were good, wide and pretty quiet apart from a couple of spots where it was a little more rogue e.g. around The Duck Stop and the road up to the Botanic Garden, but just take them carefully and always always wear a helmet.
Hope this helps you plan your days in Phong Nha and thanks for reading!

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hola Hannah!
are 3 days really enough in Phong Nha?
I see this phong nha guide mentions to do hang pygmy by jungle boss in phong nha for 2 days and 1 day for duck stop.
https://junglebosstours.com/explorer/tourism-blog/phong-nha-caves-guide
Do you think its worth it for the price?
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Hi! We found it was a great time as we did the Botanical Gardens and The Duck Stop in one day but we also took our three days there to relax a bit. There was so much to do with cave excursions but we didn’t opt to do them. If you want to do the cave hikes, I’d recommend longer than 3 days but it totally depends on your preferences!
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